That was looking great! So I updated my Arduino sketch for communication with AtmoWin, turned on the PSU, connected the Arduino to USB and told AtmoWin to turn on the LEDs: A nice rainbow of colors is what I was expecting, and this was the result: First DATA input was done on the bottom strip, to keep the distance between the Arduino and the first LED to a mimimum.Īfter double checking all my wiring and solder connections, it was time to upload a test sketch to the Arduino. Note: The wiring has been changed after these pictures were taken. Some pics of the LEDstrips on the back of the TV: In the end I connected the Bottom strip first, which reduced the 1.4 meter cable to only 10 centimeters (unfortunately no pictures). My primary setup had a long distance between the Arduino & first LED: If you start your DATA input somewhere else, you’ll have to do some channel mappings in AtmoWin. My Arduino only fits on the bottom of the TV, so that means a long DATA cable between the Arduino and first LED, which should be prevented, if possible.
ARDUINO LEONARDO LED TV
I had some issue with the wiring on the back of the TV at first, because AtmoWin starts counting your Channels (LEDs) from top left (front view). Simply removing the first LED of the strip often resolves the problems. Because of the sensitivity of the Strip, it is possible that you burned out the LED driver. Tip: When nothing happens, measure voltage on the strip. Once i had the correct sketch and the Arduino and strip connected to the PSU, the first results are there:
I’ve been having a lot of struggles with the LEDs, since they’re very sensitive.
Attached to this post you’ll find a comparison between the 2 versions, as a WS2812B datasheet.
The great thing about the WS2812B LEDs is that they’re brighter than their previous version (the WS2812) AND have a reverse connect protection. (Sorry for the rotated pictures, known issue on the forum) JST Connectors were already soldered on the strip (start + end) and i got 1 extra in the bag. The LEDs were shipped the same day i ordered them, and received within 3 days! They were shipped on a reel, in an anti-static bag. I ordered my LEDs of ebay (great seller btw!) but you can also find them on if you don’t mind ordering in China. distance of about 5 centimeters in between. I’ve chosen for LEDStrips because they are very easy to attach to the back of my TV, which is hanging on the wall with a max. Make sure you also buy wiring that can handle these currents!
ARDUINO LEONARDO LED FULL
Based on this amount of LEDs (and the specs for the LEDs) when all LEDs are full on, the strip can consume up to 10.4 Amps. My setup has a total of 173 LEDs (68 Top, 39 Left + Right and 27 on the bottom). I’ve seen people use an old USB hub or cellphone power supply, but this all depends on the amount of LEDs you’re going to attach to your TV. This PSU gives an output of 5V and can handle up to 20 Amps current, which is more than enough, but remember: the ‘bigger’ the PSU, the cooler it will stay. Since the LEDstrips run on 5V, and the Arduino can’t handle the current drawn from the LEDs, i bought a Mean Well power supply to power them. It’s using the latest WS2812B LEDs and is driven by an Arduino Leonardo. Since we already have a great DIY AmbiLight thread using LED Strings, i thought i’d share my ambilight project which uses LED strips. First of all a BIG TNX to both Lightning303 & azzuro for helping me out setting this up properly.
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